How to repair a plastic (polyethylene) kayak

hole in kayak to be repaired


These are the steps to repair holes and also scratches in a polyethylene kayak.There is a risk of deforming the main body if it fails, so you must work with risk at your own risk.

Suppose that you wanted to take a base mount that became unnecessary due to a change in the outfit.

However, removing the base mount will leave a screw hole.


If you leave it as it is, it will cause flooding, so you have to fill it in some way.


Here is an example of how to fill the screw hole in a polyethylene boat.


It can be applied not only to outdoor traces but also to repair such as simple scratches and pinholes.


Just … … If the polyethylene boat has broken greatly or cracks have entered in the Scapper Hall, it is better to think that the boat is already served its lifetime. Even if too big cracks are repaired, the risk of similar things happening again is great, so we recommend you to replace the kayak.


【An example of filling up】
Yellow kayak
For example, this starport, is not necessary anymore for my kayak I gets me in trouble when I am trying to taking it with my car, so I decided to remove it


It was held fast with tapping screws which made it easy to remove . I simply used a screwdriver and remove the screws.


hole in kayak to be repaired
However, after removing it a screw hole will remain.
As it is, it causes water infiltration inside the boat, I want to fill it  if I think about safety aspects.


The best way to repair polyethylene kayaks is to melt and fill the same polyethylene material with heat.


the polyethylene material to repair the hole in the kayak
Kayak’s End Material

If you prepare the same color end material as much as possible, the restoration marks are less conspicuous. You can get them from old plastic buckets or look for them online.



Regarding the Viking kayak used this time, the end material is comparatively easy to obtain because it is domestic. (In the case of order colors etc., it may be difficult to prepare an end material of exactly the same color)

However, most of the end materials are not prepared basically for import boats.


driledl hole in kayak
* If you do not get the end material, if you add a new flash rod holder etc yourself, you should get the end material of the hole opened with the hole saw at that time.


heat gun
is used to melt the heat gun end material. Those that do not have a temperature control function are too hot, so we recommend that you have a temperature control function.


In kayak55 we are using HAKKO’s heating gun 882 with the tip attached to a local heating attachment called A1111.


metal spatula
Something like a sculpture knife or metal spatula


plane tool


First of all, since it cannot be used with the edge material as it is, cut out.


plane tool stripping plastic from kayak
I am using canna to cut out the end material.

I think that you can do with a knife or a sculpture knife if you do it well, but the unexpected end material is sturdy and teeth slip and it is difficult to cut out. You need to be careful not to cut your hands as much as you can.
(Be careful with self-responsibility!


At this time, if it is a canna, it is easy to do, and there is little risk of injury.


If it is 4 points screw filling it is enough to afford if it is this.


strips of plastic from the kayak
Cut out in a thin string shape of 7 – 8 cm.

I think that it can be said that the cutout shape of this edge material is the biggest hint of the hole filling!


Then, let’s get into the hole at last.


strip plastic place in kayak hole
Hold the linear end material cut into one hand


Hold a heat gun in one hand


Although it is the temperature of the heat gun, although there is no detailed temperature indication on HAKKO’s heating gun 882, the maximum temperature of HAKKO’s heating gun 882 is 450 degrees, but about 3.5 of the dial which has 1 to 6 I am doing it. (Is it about 250-300 degrees? It is unknown)


Please be careful because there is a possibility that the body will melt if the heat gun temperature is too hot.

While melting the tip of the linear end material with a heat gun, push the linear end material.


heat plastic into kayak hole
It is a picture by another boat, it is like this.
For this operation, we want 7 to 8 cm of linear cutouts of edge material.


Tips and caveats are …


① Do not blow hot air.
Since the linear end material dissolves quickly, when the hole is filled, quickly release the heat gun.
Be careful as hot air blows are too attractive and the body will begin to deform.


② Do not attach the tip of the heat gun to the main unit.
When the tip of the heat gun is touched, its place will melt in a moment.


③ Do not touch the body around the hole.
Since the main body also warms and becomes soft, it gets dented just by touching with a finger. It is caution.


hole filled

I did it.


soldering plastic in hole
Next, arrange the surface with a heat gun in one hand, as a sculpture knife (like a metal spatula like one).


It is a picture of another boat, but it is like this.
Sasato I will stroke the surface with the flat side of the sculpture sword.


Again, this is the point that you can finish with the work in a moment while carefully observing the above three points.


I repeat this with all the holes and it is the end.

Is there a place where kimo is quick, not excessively melting the end material?


If the color of the edge material matches, it will become unknown soon if you look at the distance.


But, as you approach it …


kayak hole repair mark
The hole repair mark will inevitably come out.
However, it is safe to use it because there is no inundation.


With such a kanji, if there is an end material and a tool, it is also possible for individuals to repair a pinhole-like hole.


【Other methods】
If you do not have a heat gun, you can close the hole with the following method.


Let’s simulate using an end material as an example.


For example, if you want to take this starport.


I want to close it because these screw holes will remain.


The easiest way to fill the end material with heat gun is …


Tapped screws removed …


Only screw back!

If you stop with a tapping screw larger than the hole with a polyethylene boat, it will be hard to inundate because the screw thread chews on the material itself.

The merit is that there is no risk of deforming the main body.
The disadvantage is that the screw head will remain on the boat.


As another method …


Using silicone caulking agent and adhesive that can be used for polyethylene · · ·


Serve with coking in the hole!


The merit is that there is no risk of deforming the main body.
The disadvantage is still a first additive method, it is hard to say persistent. To be honest it is not recommended much.


As another method …


Use soldering irons.


I think that it is common to households than heat gun.
Since the tip of the soldering iron is about 300 degrees, the edge material melts quickly.


Cut the end material into a line shape of 7 to 8 cm in the same way as in the case of the heat gun …


As with the heat gun, hold the linear end material in one hand and fill it with a soldering iron in one hand while melting the tip of the end material.


Working efficiency is lower than heat gun, but if you do it well, I think that hole will be buried just like working with heat gun.


Risk of denting the main body is also less.


The point of caution is not to let the tip of the soldering iron touch the main body other than the hole.

If the tip of the soldering iron touches the main body even a little, the place melts in a moment …


After all, I think that it will be the same polyethylene material if you want to fill the hole tightly.

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